Mixtape 2: A Season of Return: Lilacs, Longships & Looking Ahead
- mpeterson2970
- 7 days ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
Hello from Skånevik—where the magnolia is fading fast, and the lilacs are coming in hot.
I’m back after spending the first part of April on the move.
I began the month with my first extended stay in Haugesund, house- and dog-sitting, and just returned from Bergen, where I spent a week house- and cat-sitting for an American-Italian couple.
The travel has been refreshing, the weather beautiful and the pets and their humans wonderful, but it feels good to be home.
Over the next month, I’ll be sinking into the rhythms of spring: tending the garden (and battling invasive slugs), watching the birds, keeping an eye out for the sheep as they return to the fields, hiking the mountains, and preparing to welcome the first guests at a short-term rental I’m co-hosting (more on that soon).
I'm excited to continue to witness the season unfold—last year, I returned to Norway in early May after three months in the States. By then the magnolias had come and gone and the lilacs were in full swing.
Below: Photos from this time last year, making the transition from Wisconsin to Minnesota, to prepare for the flight. I said farewell to my cabin and traded the countryside for the city, where I spent time with family and friends, worked remotely over matcha lattes, caught a few concerts, visited favorite restaurants and soaked up some urban life.
May 9 will mark both a full year back in Norway and eight months of waiting for a decision on my residency application. 🙃
I’ve spent a full year in Norway once before, but after May 9, I’ll officially be in my longest continuous stretch here.
I’m grateful for each day, even in the midst of uncertainty—and the intense challenges and sacrifices that come with this journey. The arrival of spring has helped lighten the emotional load. The return of the sun and new blooms offers a welcome reminder: even the hardest seasons pass, and change is the only constant.
Nature has a way of making that clear.
Highlights from Haugesund
Haugesund, "Home of the Viking Kings", is known for its maritime roots and Viking heritage, blending modern life with historical richness. It is home to annual events like the Norwegian Film Festival, Sildajazz & Karmøygeddon Metal Festival, to name a few. 🎬 🎷 🤘
I’d been there a few times before, but only on quick day trips—so this time, I was excited to slow down and dive deeper into the place, with a bit more learning and wandering.
Our Saviour's Church stands tall in the heart of the city and is an easy-to-spot landmark.
It makes for a great reference point while exploring the city, as you can see here.
Not far from the church is another striking landmark, the pink city hall (rådhus), built in 1931.
Next to city hall is the sculpture De fire vindene (“The Four Winds”)—four bronze women stretching in different directions, symbolizing strength and the ever-shifting winds that shape Haugesund’s spirit. The sculpture was created by Nina Sundbye and unveiled by Norway's Queen Sonja on August 26, 2004 in connection with the city's 150th anniversary.
As you approach the waterfront, the thread of feminine energy continues—this time in a more unexpected form: a statue dedicated to Marilyn Monroe.
Some say Marilyn Monroe—born Norma Jeane Mortenson—was the daughter of a baker from Haugesund, though there’s no evidence to confirm it.
Still, the statue makes for a fun, quirky landmark.
More from the city + surrounding area.
I also took a quick trip to Sveio, just north of Haugesund, and came across Flokehyttene.
These five stunning + modern cabins, named after Viking explorer Floke Vilgerdsson’s family and companions, perch right above the sea. They were occupied when I visited, so I couldn’t get too close, but you can see more photos and read about them here.
Avaldsnes: Where Norway’s Story Begins
Avaldsnes is not only one of Norway’s most important historical sites but also considered Norway's oldest royal seat. This area is believed to be the origin of the name Norway itself—Norðrvegr, which means “the way to the north.”
The site is home to the Viking Museum and is deeply tied to the story of Harald Fairhair, the king credited with uniting Norway into a single kingdom in the 9th century.
St. Olav's Church is strategically positioned on a hilltop, from where it was easy to watch over ships travelling through the Karmsundet strait.
Nearby is the Viking Farm, located on the island of Bukkøy, just a 10-minute walk from the church.
This open-air museum, part of an archaeological research project with the University of Stavanger, showcases reconstructed Viking-era buildings: a longhouse, boathouse, and roundhouse. It offers a tangible glimpse into everyday Viking life—farmers, artisans, seafarers, and the vital role women played in managing households and resources.
In June, the Viking Farm hosts an international Viking Festival—complete with reenactors who bring the Viking era to life.
Looking Ahead in Haugesund
I was able to see and do a lot during my weeklong stay, but have begun a list for next time (I'm honored that Heiko's humans have invited me back to watch him again in mid-June):
Formbar Glassverksted – a women-owned glassblowing studio
The Rising Tide – a sculpture installation with horse-and-rider figures partially submerged by the tides. Their horse heads are replaced with oil pumpjacks, symbolizing our fossil fuel dependency. Originally exhibited in the River Thames in London in 2015, the sculptures were relocated to Norway to continue their environmental message in a new setting.
Utsira – An island reached via a 70-minute ferry ride from Haugesund that is Norway’s smallest municipality with just 217 residents. It has a strong fishing heritage and independent spirit. (Check out "Little, Strong Utsira – Life in Norway's Smallest Municipality", Nordic Labour Journal, March 2025.)
Children on Utsira learn about the cardinal points at an early age. People living in the old fishing community still navigate by what lies north, south, east and west. Ask children in the kindergarten or pupils in the schools what they want to be when they grow up, and most still answer farmer or fisher.
🍃 Introducing Field Notes
I’d been toying with the idea of weaving snapshots of people, places, and stories I encounter across Norway into this space. During my visit to Haugesund, the subject of my first Field Note revealed himself.
Moritz Rabinowitz was a Jewish immigrant, businessman, community builder, and outspoken opponent of fascism whose legacy still resonates in the region today.
Read his story in Field Note 1: Moritz Moses Rabinowitz (3-minute read).
A Bounce to Bergen
During this weeklong stay in Bergen, I was able to catch up with Iasonas 🐾, read from the homeowners' well-stocked English-language library, and revisit some favorite haunts—including the coffee shop that now knows my usual.
The city is buzzing with early-season tourists: selfie sticks are out, tour groups are back, and I heard my first suitcase wheels-on-cobblestone sounds of the season.
While there, I realized that my timing meant that I was in Bergen on the 164th anniversary of my great-great grandfather’s departure for America. According to outgoing records, he left Bergen on April 18, 1861.
What I'm Reading: Books in the Mix
📖 Just finished The Unseen by Roy Jacobsen (thank you Ron and Heather Lott!)
📖 Now reading The Eight Mountains by Paolo Cognetti
📖 Next up: The Book of Alchemy by Suleika Jaouad and Richard Manuel: His Life and Music
What I’m Listening To: Revisiting Jason Isbell
With all the traveling, it’s been hard to settle into anything new recently, so there's not much to report here. I’ve had Jason Isbell's latest, Foxes in the Snow, on repeat and really like it. But more than that, it sparked an interest in revisiting his catalog—Southeastern and The Nashville Sound have been in my ear even more lately.
As always, I welcome your recommendations for reads, listens + more in the comments!
Learn Norwegian: Easter Crime & Taco Fridays
In Norway, Easter isn’t just about quiet reflection—it’s also prime time for crime.
Påskekrim (påske means Easter and krim means crime) is a quirky tradition where Norwegians dive into thrilling mysteries, either through books or binge-watching crime series over the long weekend.
Another surprise (all year long): Taco Friday. Yep—tacos are a national Friday night tradition.
Always something fun and delightful to discover here. 🐣 🌮
What's on Tap
Aside from a potential weekend trip to Bergen, I’ll be in Skånevik through Syttende Mai (Norway’s National Day, May 17). A few days later, I’m heading to Son—just south of Oslo—for a new dog-sitting adventure with Otto the Lagotto (who even has his own Instagram!).
I’m looking forward to exploring this particular part of Norway for the first time, soaking in the early summer days, and getting to know Otto, his human, and their home.
I’m also honored to have recently accepted a volunteer role as Editor of Tidningen, the quarterly newsletter of the Swedish Genealogical Society of Minnesota (SGSM). While I’ve worked in communications for years, it’s been a minute since I’ve officially held the title of “Editor”—not since high school, when I led The Plank, the student publication of De Soto High School (a small town on the Mississippi River—we were the “Pirates” and had big nautical energy). I have fond memories of working under the steady guidance of Mr. Koelker, a mentor and one of my favorite teachers, whose writing continues to inspire me today.
Over the coming months, I’ll be listening, learning, connecting with the SGSM team, and gradually stepping into this fully remote role. 🇸🇪
My next update will likely come in June. Until then, I hope you’re finding your own ways to embrace the season’s changes—and remembering that change is the only constant.
Thank you for reading,
Marla
Thanks Marla! You're on quite a journey and by sharing, I'm enjoying the ride.