I began this post in early December, in the corner of a small café called Fjell & Fjord in Eidfjord, Norway and I'm (finally!) finishing it on Christmas Day in the corner of big café called Espresso House in Bergen.
This year marks my third holiday season in Norway. The first was in Geilo in 2021, last year I was in Skånevik (the village where I'm now based) and this year I am in Bergen for Christmas. As much as I love being tucked away in a small village, it was a bit too isolating last year so I decided to be proactive so that I could have a different experience this year. In early December I put the word out in a few groups that I was available to pet/housesit, which led to this arrangement in Bergen. I'm so grateful to be here, in a city that is always charming and beautiful, but truly a magical place during the holidays.
Last week I visited Pepperkakebyen, the world's largest Gingerbread City (where a Norwegian relative happened to be working as cashier!) and sipped warm gløgg as I strolled through Bergen's bustling julemarked (Christmas market). Midwest friends: Check out Gingerbread Wonderland at Norway House in Minneapolis (open until January 4), which is inspired by Bergen's Gingerbread City!
I'm here until the 31st and while I'm experiencing some of the sites that only pop up around the holidays, I've also been getting my steps in by exploring the walking routes in my copy of "Bergen's Wooden Architecture" (much more enjoyable without throngs of tourists around). Monday called for sun and blue skies and I took full advantage!
Each year I do my best to navigate the noise, materialism and commercialism that is THE HOLIDAY SEASON MACHINE. I treasure small traditions like watching the movie A Christmas Story and listening to the Alabama Christmas album, which were my father's favorites that we watched and listened to at our house each year when I was a child.
I appreciated the message from Bronnie Ware, author of Regrets of the Dying, that we can Choose Our Own Rules for the Christmas Season. Other reads that I've appreciated recently include one from NPR about German Stammtisch, one on finding happiness with houseplants and one I listened to yesterday on public radio about loneliness around the holidays. I can't seem to find the link, but one of the main messages was that if you're feeling down, take action. They recommended choosing from a list, like:
Take a hike.
Read a book.
Call a friend.
When I feel myself falling into a slump, I've been trying to do more of all of the above and it has been helping. I also find comfort in the fact that this should be my last 'limbo Christmas', when I'm waiting on a decision regarding residency in Norway. An answer should come by spring, then I can move forward accordingly.
Depending on the timing, I'm aiming for a stateside visit in spring (March/April) and hope to spend Christmas stateside in 2025. I'm grateful that I'm able to remain in Norway while my application is under review, but I'm also looking forward to moving on from what has been an exhausting process. Like a friend I've made here who's originally from Montana said recently, "It ain't for the weak of heart, that's for sure."
Above: Christmas in Geilo, 2021.
If you're interested in reading more about Norwegian traditions, I recommend the Visit Norway site, Norway with Pål, where you can learn about lutefisk and nisse and North Wild Kitchen, where you can find all sorts of amazing recipes, for the holidays and beyond.
I hope that wherever you are today, whether it's in the company of others or on your own like me, you are embracing simplicity and gratitude and remembering that you can set rules and boundaries that are best for your well-being. Kick back, relax and enjoy a less-than-perfect holiday.
Lastly, in the words of Leonard Cohen, "May you be surrounded by friends and family, and if this is not your lot, may the blessings find you in your solitude."
God Jul / Merry Christmas,
Marla
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